Woodford Reserve Master’s Collection Batch Proof (2023)

Mike Rosen

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Bourbon

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June 14, 2023

Happy National Bourbon Day!

It’s June and time for the Woodford Reserve annual Batch Proof release. This year’s release comes it at 124.7 proof which is higher than last year’s release at 118.4. In charge of this year’s release is Elizabeth McCall, who was recently appointed the position of Master Distiller at Woodford in February of this year. Living up to her hard working and caring reputation, Elizabeth was generous to take time out of her busy schedule to answer a few questions I had about this Batch Proof release.

In Elizabeth McCall’s own words, “The Batch Proof Masters Collection, is produced in the same manner as our traditional bourbon, the only difference being that it is “batch proof” and not our standard 90.4 proof”. Just like the standard bourbon, Batch Proof uses a combination of pot and column still filled barrels from Woodford Reserve’s Scottish made Forsyths copper pot-stills, and column stills at the Brown-Forman distillery (same as Old Forester). Woodford also uses the same in-house Brown-Forman cooperage that create custom barrels for the Woodford Reserve brand. As said in Whiskey Advocate by Woodford’s Master Distiller Emeritus Chris Morris, “The wood is seasoned naturally for nine months, and each barrel receives a pre-char toast to degrade the oak’s lignin. The toast takes about ten minutes, and then the barrel is charred. Some Brown-Forman barrels burn for as long as a minute, but the standard Woodford char is just 25 seconds”. The barrels are aged in Woodford’s 1870 heat cycled barrel houses with a barrel entry proof of 110. A standard Woodford Reserve batch size is made from about 120 barrels.

“As with the tradition of the Master’s Collection, we want to change one source of flavor to see the impact. For batch proof, we look for the flavor impact the different proof provide”.

To describe the process that drives the creation of Woodford’s Batch Proof releases, Elizabeth says, “As with the tradition of the Master’s Collection, we want to change one source of flavor to see the impact. For batch proof, we look for the flavor impact the different proof provide”. When asked if there was a process specific to this batch that was different or the same as previous batches, Elizabeth said, “It is the same process each year, we let the barrels lead the way in proof which impacts the flavor”.

It’s rare that I see a special annual release like this in the wild, and at a price that isn’t ridiculously inflated. This release comes in a 700ml bottle which I’d be remiss if I didn’t mention. This is an upset that Brown-Forman has also done with the release of Jack Daniels Bonded and Triple Mash Whiskey. The reason they say makes it easier for global distribution because 700ml is the universal size for spirits outside the U.S. I’m not sure this is the main reason for the 700ml size in the Master’s Collection, but it most likely contributes to making this limited batch go further. Delivering to markets that don’t usually see them, like mine. I decided to buy this bottle to celebrate the launching of this new website. Let’s check this out!

Taken: Neat in a Glencairn glass, rested about 15 minutes.

Distillery: Woodford Reserve Distillery

Proof: 124.7.

Age: NAS (this batch uses barrels 5 – 7 years old).

Batch #: 2023 Batch Proof Release.

Mash bill: 72% Corn/ 18% Rye/ 10% Malted Barley.

MSRP: $130.00 700ml.

Appearance: Dark golden caramel.

Nose

Rich notes of chocolate covered raisins, toffee, luxardo cherry reduction with apricot, red berries, baked apple and a hint of banana and orange citrus. Along with all those dark and fruity notes are vanilla bean, sage, green tea, allspice and cedar. As time passes and with each sip, this profile opens with more sweet butterscotch, pitted fruit and berries. The oak in this batch is fantastic. All the notes are carefully well balanced with no ethanol in the way.

Palate

With a medium viscous mouthfeel, the nose is spot-on to the palate with luxardo cherries, red berries, apricot and banana, with a good amount of chocolate, sage, vanilla and rich oak. A well-balanced allspice enters mid sip followed by a soft Kentucky hug in the chest. I love the rich and well-balanced oak that tastes older than its age and adds depth to this profile. This is a very delicious pour that drinks dangerously below its proof.

Finish

Allspice continues to linger on the palate with luxardo cherry, banana, apricot, vanilla and sage. Oak turns to delicate tannins of leather as allspice fades with vanilla and cherry coming back around to close out this very long and tasteful finish.

Conclusion

Elizabeth McCall did a fantastic job overseeing this year’s batch proof release. On Woodford’s website, McCall simply says, “It’s a high-proof bourbon with complex flavors.” Short and to the point but I agree. This is a carefully well-crafted, complex, and fantastic tasting bourbon. If I had to describe this batch in one word, it would be “decadent”. I love a bourbon profile that’s very dark cherry and chocolate forward, which are the flavors at the heart of this batch.

What’s also very impressive is how well this bourbon drinks under its proof and how “clean” it tastes. Those characteristics reminds me of an Irish triple pot-stilled whiskey like Redbreast. Which makes perfect sense because Woodford and Redbreast use Forsyths copper pot-stills. Coincidentally, the whiskey I reviewed before this one was Redbreast 12 Batch Proof B1/21. It’s hard to describe what “clean” translates to in whiskey, but it’s the desired result when you triple run distillate through a copper pot-still, making tight cuts along the way, to only get the very clean tasting desired part of the distillate called the “heart”.

On my first pour, I was mainly getting a lot of great tasting oak with some other good, but muted notes underneath. This had me concerned. But I was patient and hopeful that this batch would open up like pot-stilled whiskeys tend to do over time. By the second and third pour this bottle was living up to its potential and my high expectations. This year’s Batch Proof release shows off what Woodford Reserve can do when they put their minds and resources into creating something that is above and beyond their standard expressions. Releases like this have me wishing for more than one Woodford Batch Proof release a year. The 2023 Woodford Reserve Batch Proof is an incredible expression that offers the kind of complexity, depth and flavor I was hoping for. It’s one of the most memorable bottles I’ve had so far this year.

Rating: 9/10.